For the serious art collector, however, where one stays during “The Fair” makes a statement, and can mean the difference between being marooned in tourist purgatory, or ensconced by the pool alongside the “inner circle” of key players.

Up until perhaps last year or the year before, the debate over where to stay primarily centered around: The Raleigh? or The Delano? Both still great choices for luxury and access to the players.

However, in 2012, many who don’t want to be seen at the scene, now opt for the The Betsy, a stunning “boutique” hotel — a lovely, comfortable antidote to the sometimes sterile trendy style of most South Beach hot spots.  Or odds are that many are flocking to the host of new hotels that pop up — or are renovated by star designers  — so fast in South Beach, that it might not be last year’s hotel, but last month’s that puts you behind “the scene”.

The Betsy-South Beach has a striking Florida Georgian facade that overlooks Ocean Drive

New and very popular openings this year include the SLS — the newest, shiniest and buzziest hotel on Collier Avenue — designed by Phillippe Starck right next door to his iconic creation, the Delano.

In the “only in South Beach” department, the pool at the SLS is guarded by an enormous silver duck, and Starck was quoted, quite seriously, saying, “Outside in the garden, is a long swimming pool, the kingdom of the duck toy you had in your bath as a child!”.

Also predicted, a pilgrimage to the much-anticipated and recently renovated James Royal Palms, another gorgeous hotel, originally built in 1939, and re-opened literally last week, just in time for Art Basel.  Either by accident or design — no pun intended — The James is suffused with art, including a sculpture entirely made up of clothes pins. The entire feel, although pretty, is a bit funkier and less slick and manicured than some of its Collier Avenue neighbors — a selling point for some of the true “artists” at the Fair, who might want a bit more of an ”arty” than a “money” vibe.

THE JAMES – Guestroom

The Raleigh, with the most discreet entrance on Collier Avenue — a tiny stone pillar with a tinier brass plaque — lead to a small circular drive. Blink and you miss it.  The Raleigh boasts the  much-photographed fabulous Esther Williams Deco swimming pool, surrounded by lounge beds, big enough to multi-task on mobile, with important-looking papers strewn, all the while perfecting one’s tan. It’s been called “One of the Grand Dames” of the art deco style (Conde Nast Traveler) and also still boasts perhaps, the best bar and outdoor dining “scene”, and certainly the best spot for the power breakfast.

The Oasis at THE RALEIGH

One is likely to pick at one’s melon, dry brown toast and black coffee in eavesdropping distance from such art world luminaries as  dealers, Jeffrey Deitch or Jay Jopling, LACMA’s uber-handsome Museum Director, Michael Govan.  Or — as happened to me the last time I stayed there — one could be seated next to art collector and tennis player, John McEnroe. McEnroe faithfully did his morning workout in one of the cabanas by the pool -where exercise equipment and music is provided on demand = and then sat down for a quick LA breakfast — dripping with sweat. No one seemed to mind.

The problem with the Raleigh is the rooms. An attempt at a sort of “1950s Havana” look, with brown and orange bedspreads, worn rattan furniture, and a miniscule green-tiled bath, looks and feels a bit tired.

The Delano, the first Art Deco renovation by Starck on South Beach, open now since 1997 is a veritable historic landmark by Miami standards. It is still “in your face” luxury with jaw-dropping design.

When one thinks of the Delano, one usually thinks of the “white on white” bedrooms, and exquisite outdoor gardens, now much-copied by boutique hotels the world over.

The Pool at DELANO

But what really stands out are the fantastical and Baroque design touches in the public spaces — including enormous pink and purple chandeliers, the  deliberately dodgy-feeling,“Rose Bar” and lots of silvered and blue surfaces and curvaceous couches. All in all, the lobby is a bit of a Vatican meets Bordello meets Gatsby look, that amazingly all falls together seamlessly.

Step-children to the Delano design ethic, yet maybe a bit young for the real  art professionals at Miami Basel — are the endlessly partying “W” Hotel (guest room pictured below left), The Mondrian;  and if one wants to make the trek to downtown Miami, The Conrad, (pictured below right) — a key-lime and white confection that elicits cravings for frosty daiquiris on a primal level.

One could go on.  But the real trouble with Basel Miami is that whether one stays at the center of the action, or at one of the more low-key resorts — is that with the sound of the surf, villa balcony massages, and fish tacos and champagne on order from room service — – it is pretty difficult to rally up to go over to the massive, sterile Convention Center to see the art on offer!  Cheat Sheet: Flip through the telephone book-sized fair catalogue by the pool, get photographed at the VIP opening, and, as they say in La-La Land, “Done and done”.

- LAURA STEWART