According to www.cherieciti.com, the U.K. luxury travel blog: “Park Lane hotels are invariably plush with an international crowd, but the newly-reopened Four Seasons Park Lane occupies another realm of hushed luxury and good taste”.

One would recommend Amaranto, wholly on the merits of its exquisite Italian food with an English twist.  However, (and we are biased!), the real fun is that if you go, you will perhaps take a double take as you enter.

Amaranto – restaurant, bar and lounge is a single space which dramatically transitions through a series of rooms. With its own individual décor cleverly designed to seamlessly flow together while at the same time offering three distinctly different experiences. Created by award-winning interior designer Pierre-Yves Rochon, the spectacular contemporary yet classic space reflects a definitive sense of place in the heart of the British capitol.

It is extraordinary that most luxury hotel chains make the mistake of spending a King’s ransom on renovation — pouring buckets of cash into uber-chic interiors with bespoke 1000 thread-count sheets, specially lacquered walls, and enough flowers to scent Versailles — and then treat the art that they slap on the walls, as an afterthought.

It is a mystery to art-lovers why these funds are not better spent on unique works of art, rather than the ubiquitous botanical and architectural prints, one still finds scattered about the world’s most expensive and exclusive destinations.

In stark contrast to the “international-style” beige and taupe serenity of the hotel’s recent refurbishment, Amaranto took the plunge and appointed its interior with sumptuous dark red fabrics, Chinoiserie objets, and gleaming black marble surfaces.

The overall effect –with comfy cushions to sink into– and discreet, yet attentive service, is one of a hybrid slightly Venetian, slightly Confucian interior– that melds seamlessly into an oasis of richly cosseted calm. 

Reeking of privilege and perhaps the ultimate indulgence in today’s pacey world, — the luxury to take one’s time, Amaranto’s style is in sharp contrast to most current trendy restaurants that think that minuscule and pretentious portions served up in reflective white and concrete-floored interiors –clattering with cutlery and overheard conversations – is what the “arty” client desires. 

RASHID KHALIFA’S COMMISSIONED ARTWORK FEATURED AT FOUR SEASONS HOTEL PARKLANE’S AMARANTO RESTAURANT 

Yes. The Pasha-like interior is replete with stunning, specially commissioned works of art by Bahrain’s most accomplished painter, and patron of the arts, Rashid Khalifa.

Amaranto Bar

In this interior, Al Khalifa’s three works: a medley of square and rectangles, filled with heavily dripped black enamel paint on red, white and black high-gloss lacquer convex service hung in the lounge and the bar. While in the restaurant another high gloss lacquer convex with green, black, burgundy and yellow stripes serves as background for the neon-green enamel drips like waterfall “pop” from the ebony walls transform this “power lunch” and “special occasion” scene from a typical haute hotel eatery, into a restaurant that feels more like a private residence.

And, thank goodness for that.

Amaranto bar

CONTEMPORARY, ITALIAN – INSPIRED CUISINE

Oh, and yes, of course the food! This is, in fact, a restaurant, not an art gallery! Conjured by resident chef, Davide Degiovanni, — the seemingly unlikely fusion of Italian and English food actually works beautifully.

Inventive dishes such as: feather-light gnocchi filled with a gentle basil pesto and ricotta paired with pan-fried Scottish langoustine marinating in a wild mushroom broth; or fresh Cornish crab tagliolini, with braised artichokes and grated fresh lemon zest are exquisite example of the interesting idea of taking fresh ingredients from the British Isles and incorporating them into classic Italian dishes.

And if that doesn’t make your mouth water, fast-forward to pudding where the choice is difficult. 

If by this time you have taken advantage of the restaurant’s excellent, and predominately Italian wine list, you must finish off with Amaranto’s signature “Six Little Sins” dessert, perhaps accompanied by a dopio espresso and a vintage Sauternes. 

Six Little Sins comes as a platter of chocolate delights – a chocolate fondant, white chocolate ice cream on a bed of crunchy biscuit pebbles and a big smudge of chocolate sauce. The pièce de résistance is the huge chocolate ball on which the waiter pours a thick, hot Valrhona chocolate sauce. The ball melts instantly to reveal delicious berries on top of a splodge of white chocolate cream.

Now try getting up from the cushions, and heading back to a techno-sound installation or a panel discussion on the “agitation and politicization of today’s contemporary art world” at Frieze — Perhaps not. Maybe a nap.